Prairie Rose tutorial

Please note that I use French seams so photos will show work as French seams but use method you are comfortable with.

Pleat fabric for front

remove all threads from the 1st and last 15 pleats

For this top bias is not necessary.  Cut fabric for binding and piping.

for piping cut 3/4" wide for binding cut 1.5" wide or to widths desired

sew piping and binding to bodice front leaving the back of binding unsewn.

using the front smocking guide center it on the smocking with the top of it at the fold of the binding.

Transfer the lines from the bodice front to the fabric using markers appropriate for fabric.  Make sure you also mark the sides because this is the sides of the dress.

zigzag over the lines to secure the smocking (I prefer going over it twice.)

trim close to stitching being sure to not cut the zigzag threads.  Also trim down the sides

sew bodice back and shoulder seams together

on bodice back and shoulder seams make a casing for elastic, turn and press 1/4" and then turn and press 3/8"

open binding and casing and sew bodice front to sleeves.

sleeves and bodice should now have and even casing all around.

Sew casing by stitching from sleeve/bodice front seam around back and to opposite sleeve ending at sleeve/bodice seam on opposite side.  (do not stitch bodice front.)

On sleeves fold under and press ¼” and 3/8” for casing (unfold for next step)

 open sleeve casing and sew side and sleeve sides fold sleeve casing back under and sew leaving an opening for elastic.  insert elastic in casing, over lap ends and sew, pull elastic back into casing and stitch opening closed.